NORTHERN DALMATIA 2004
Karel - skipper
Jarda - first officer (second in comand, since adolescence still growing up)
Jaja - second officer (taking care of Verda)
Roman - deck hand (documentarist and steerman for extreme conditions)
Robert - deck hand (sport comentator and diver specialized in night diving)
Kaori - deck hand (documentarist - what else in case of a japanese, and oriental cuisine)
Verda - deck hand (a ship's pet child and tormentor of all three "uncles")
A year passed away and there came the time to set out on another nautical holiday. Already proved term, well-known charter company, the same type of a ship. Only a ship's name was different. Last year's Indigo was sold and so we could experience no less excellent Bavaria 34 - Garma.
A ship's crew was again international. Six Moravian people and one Japanese girl. What remained the same was the skipper and two members of the last year's crew - these were, concerning their experience, raised to the officer's rank before leaving port. New seamen were coming from Zlin and Yokohama. Five year old "litle sailor" quickly became to be a cute darling for all.
Departure passed off on time. On Friday evening two fully loaded cars set out on our favourite (sometimes damned) journey from Hodonin towards Bratislava, through Hungary to Croatian island Murter. Marina in Jezera didn't change a bit. Perhaps just women cleaners began to do their work not only approprietly but also quickly. So we could take on board already on Saturday afternoon.
Saturday (photos: Kaori, Roman)
Quite soon we left board for the first sailing around Murter Canal islands. After ten minutes Kaori said: "I'm sick.", repeating this sentence during the following 24 hours. The wind was comfortable and new seamen were quickly making familiar with uncertain surface under feet, great amount of ropes and irritable commands of their captain, who forced them to perform his instructions immediately and without much thought.
When mooring that evening we had bad luck for the whole week ahead. In strong side wind moving back to moor was not succesfull. But even worse was that the gear lever got stuck, the engine died away and Garma became a freak of nature. Thanks to good luck and careful steering we managed to moor to a fishing ship. Damir, a charter employer, then in ten seconds removed the defect using a big spanner and a hammer, and in the same condition he moved back into much more narrow "gap" mooring by himself. Simply he knows how.
Sunday (photos: Kaori, Roman, Karel)
Weather forecast for this day said 30 knots Yugo. We sailed quickly to Vrgada, moored to buoy and then were fishing shells in Artina island shallows. In the afternoon we went on to Zut. But near Gangaro an expected Yugo leant full weight on our ship and there raised two metres high waves - running directly on the port and rather rocking our ship, that we let only genoa raised. Not before Galijolica lighthouse we managed to get in Zut lee side. At the moment there were only two ships at sight - Polish crew strengthened by the Baltic sea and no less than 30 meter long yacht belonging to some pasha.
Zut creek was already calm. Just next to our ship there was anchored the mentioned Polish yacht Carpe Diem - we amussed its crew and had a good time till the late morning. Their "captain" Ana was really super.
Monday (photos: Kaori, Roman, Karel)
Even if there was just slight wind, we decided to yachting and were draging to Telascica. The incident "a little sailor overboard" (Verda didn't want give up a peanut dropped into the water) passed without complication thanks to permanently worn life-jacket. Near Katina we could observe the local firemen practicing their exact plane interventions to liquidate a forest fire.
In Telascica part of our crew unshipped and went to see the cliffs and salt lake, while a midday feast was being prepared in Garma drifting in the middle of the bay. Thus we managed to avoid collectors. When sailing we had lunch and then got to Mana island in Kornati. Even in a strong wind the anchor was holding well and we enjoyed the whole afternoon snorkling and looking for waffle Tatranka treasure in "a pirate nest".
The same term was chosen for his holiday by Roman, yacht instructor and March regatta organizer. On Sunday he left Sukosan and was sleeping on Dugi otok island. He carefully planned and prepared the provisions - like for a stag party. However spending the holiday with his family caused that he had food suplements based on spirit left and was in short supply of bread. Quickly we came to agreement and before 6 o'clock both our ships were hanged on our anchor. Our meeting was amply "drank on a bargain". Because of wind rocking our ships so much, that they several times scraped against each other by masts we finished our small party and in nightfall moored in marina Piskera. Unfortunately, the wind rose on a mast was damaged by one of those strokes, and in the following days it refused to function.
In Piskera we almost lost a crew member. A sliwowitz base didn't support a beer load when watching football and rather smooth Rob appeared - for unexplainable reasons - at night in the water. By luck, he was pulled out by Germans. Had it happened after the Thursday match, they would let him be in water. The following two hours of common growing sober were made pleasant by his "unbearable" directness. :o).
Tuesday (photos: Kaori, Roman, Karel)
On Tuesday we left Piskera for Skradin. Like last year - with no wind - we were motoring round Kakan island, when we found that Roman has just lunch near Borovnjak. This time we used his buoy and repeated the yesterday's action. As Rob spent the whole day in his cabin, his health was no more endangered. Leaving Kakan we missed Zmajan and Zlarin, got to Sibenik, and were motoring round river Krka as far as to Skradin. On Prokljan lake we met again Ana but these hard-line yachters were directed in full sail towards the oposite course. So there was no opportunity to amuse together. In the evening we looked through the town.
Wednesday (photos: Kaori, Roman, Karel)
In marina we were warned that at 12 o'clock sailing under the new highwaz bridge will be closed because of construction moving. So we had to arrange our visit of Skardinski Buk waterfalls till the midday. Getting up at 6:30 morning was cruel. But everything went on well - including swimming - and round midday we were directed onto Sibenik to petrol station. We changed a town trip for the pleasant sail to Primosten.
In the bay we were surprised by ruther untypical buoys, which had not a big loop on the top for comfortable pulling up, and to catch it from bellow was really not easy. After "manoeuvres" to amuse overland tourists Jarda decided to get down into water. Surprisingly, at instruction: "Throw him a rope!" he got the rope indeed, but within both ends. What the sailor forgot was to keep one ending tied on board. Yet, we succeeded in tight mooring.
Encouraged by our success and cheered up by his visit a place known from hos youth, Jarda - with a sliwowitz bottle - sailed away to a neighbouring Austrian ship, from which he was driven back after about an hour. Of course, in the morning he couldn't remember that he nearly drowned a fee collector. As Jarda's condition disabled him from staying alone on the ship, ladies went to the town, men to watch football and the skipper became a bonne. The evening ended with celebration of another football win.
Thursday (photos: Kaori, Roman, Karel)
From Primosten we set out in direction to Hrbosnjak and dropped anchor in Kaprija bay. Most of the day we spent with swimming and a land trip. From Vela Glavica hill we could see - at the opposite side of Kaprija - just a little island with an adjacent shallow, that should have became our destination for the next day. From Kaprija we sailed at sunset to marina in Vodica and went to a pub to have some sea creatures and watch football.
Friday (photos: Kaori, Roman, Karel, Martin)
In the morning two other candidates for sailors arrived in Vodica - Martin and Veronika from Slovakia. In view of the brought provisions they were very welcomed. With lucky wind and at a pretty calm sea we sailed to Gumanac island and anchored in 3 metre depth. Warm crystal-clear water, mussels and in particular plenty of sea-urchins. Everyone enjoyed snorkling.
At sunset the wind got calm, we started the engine and hurried for our home marina Jezera. After a few drops of oil supply we made our last faux pas. The same marina, the same place, the same time - but this time it was mooring rope under keel. After all, we were successful and Damir felt relieved seeing us moored to the mole. With Martin we went back to Vodica for his car, later had a hot shower and in good cheer were cleaning up our provisions. Then we had a romantic walk in night Jezera.
Saturday (photos: Kaori, Roman, Karel, Kaori - Sunday)
There came vacation of our ship, the last breakfast and passing the ship over with no defect. Part of the crew set out back for Hodonin (descre for the younger child) with a short break in Karlovac Civil War Museum. The other part stayed in Hungarian Lenti thermal. Jarda took a fancy to the new friends so much, that he prefered to pretend his car break-down, so that he may for one more night move with Kaori in Roman's apartment.
As the bigger part of the crew was new and didn't know Dalmatia coast, we repeated again the best of the last year route. In addition, what we got through in six days last year, this year we managed to sail and see in three and a half days. So we could enjoy new places, and sailing and swimming just for fun. After the last mooring GPS showed total route 164 Nm.
A map from the log-book (map 1, map 2)